Heat pumps have suffered from bad publicity over the years. Early designs weren’t always the most reliable, and they were often very drafty, since heat pumps require more airflow than gas furnaces do.

But simply put, heat pumps are just air conditioners that can also run backwards. To understand the principle, feel the air that blows from the condensing unit of an air conditioner (the outside part). You’ll notice that it is about 20 degrees warmer that the outside ambient air temperature. Yet, even when the outdoor temperature is above 100 degrees, the air conditioner makes the indoor air cooler.

This cooling happens because a warm, high-pressure gas is sent to a coil and fan outdoors where the heat is released, and a cool, low-pressure gas is cycled through an indoor coil and fan, where indoor heat is absorbed. As a result, the air passing through the indoor coil leaves it about 20 degrees cooler than the indoor ambient temperature.

In the winter, though, a reversing valve inside the heat pump sends the warm gas to the indoor coil and the cool gas to the outdoor coil, where (regardless of the outdoor temperature) some heat is absorbed from the air and transferred to inside the house. However, the colder the outdoor temperature, the less efficiently the heat pumps works. In fact, a heat pump works best when the outdoor temperature is above freezing.

Heat from a winter Minnesota night
Does this mean that heat pumps shouldn’t be used where temperatures normally drop well below 32 degrees during the winter? No. In fact, heat pumps may operate at about the same cost as gas furnaces even in northern climates, depending on the costs of natural gas and electricity. If you check the average daily winter temperature in most areas, you’ll find they seldom run below the mid-30s range. (Ask the marketing people for your local utilities; they’ll be able to give you an accurate record of average temperatures.)

True, during cold nights, some supplemental heating is usually necessary. That can come from electric resistance heaters, or for much greater efficiency, from specially adapted gas furnaces that can help heat pumps through periods of extreme cold.

So try to forget the bad reputation heat pumps gained during their early history. Modern versions use tougher compressors; that means they are even more reliable during the cooling season. And models with variable-speed indoor fans are especially good at preventing cold drafts in the winter.

Up to this point, we have been discussing what we call air-air heat pumps—those that take heat from the outdoor air and transfer it to the indoor air. There are other types of heat pumps that draw heat from water and from the ground, which provide efficiency that is more consistent, require no supplemental heat, and may provide the most cost-effective form of heating and cooling. We will discuss them in a future article.

Today’s new homes are better insulated, are more tightly sealed, and have fewer holes in the exterior shell than ever before. While these advances in technology and building science have greatly improved energy efficiency in new homes, they have also helped foster a potentially harmful environment for the homeowner.

Indoor air quality (IAQ) is rapidly becoming a concern among health care professionals and builders. According to the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), the air quality within a home may be five times as unhealthy as the air outside. Poor IAQ can lead to many health issues, including headaches; eye, nose, and throat irritation; fatigue; and dizziness. Poor IAQ can also trigger asthma attacks, as well as pneumonitis and humidifier fever.

Some of the major offenders in creating poor IAQ are carbon monoxide, pet dander, dust mites, and mold spores.

When a new home is under construction, builders have the best chance to help create a clean breathing environment for their customers. By being aware of the factors that can contribute to poor IAQ, builders can work proactively to install systems within the home that can lead to a more comfortable and healthy living environment.

Here are a few of the causes of poor IAQ and solutions that builders can implement.

Common combustion appliances, such as furnaces and hot water heaters, produce carbon monoxide, which is normally vented through the flue to the outside. Sometimes, through a process known as back drafting, this dangerous gas can be released into the home. To prevent back drafting, builders should install sealed combustion appliances. A sealed combustion furnace has two pipes, one to draw fresh air for combustion and another used to push exhaust fumes out of the house. These units are installed with a fan that maintains proper airflow to ensure that back drafting of harmful fumes can’t occur.

Another contributor to poor IAQ is volatile organic compounds, or VOCs. VOCs are often noticed as that “new car smell” in the home. These invisible vapors are a result of cleaning and finishing chemicals used within the home during construction; paint, varnish, and cleaning products emit VOCs. Builders should try to reduce the residual fumes from construction as much as possible before the homeowner moves in. To do so, builders should make sure that the workspace is well ventilated and that HVAC systems have fresh filters. Also, there are many cleaning and finishing products now available that are specifically designed to reduce VOCs.

One of the most significant choices a builder can make to help create a clean, healthy breathing environment within the new home is to install an independent ventilation system. These ventilation systems remove dangerous elements from the air. By filtering household air and circulating fresh air into the home, these systems can greatly improve the home’s IAQ, especially in areas like the kitchen and bathroom.
Builders who strive to build durable, comfortable, and safe homes may find that potential customers respond well to efforts to improve their indoor air quality. By being proactive, builders not only deliver a healthier home, they create a competitive advantage for themselves in an environmentally conscious market.

Mold Growth from a leaky roof.

This week’s feature story takes an in depth look at mold. First, what is mold? Mold is a fungus which typically forms and is found in moist or damp environments. Mold produces tiny spores reproduce. Spores become airborne and typically settle damp spots where they grow and feed off of whatever they are growing on in order to survive. Typical spots inside the home where mold settles are on wood, walls, ceilings, attics, basements, and basically anything else moist.

Mold needs moisture to thrive and can invade our home in many ways including plumbing that leaks, unventilated areas, through condensation in heating and air conditioning systems and ducts, as well as  through structural defects resulting in water entry such as a leaky roof, leaks inside walls, improperly installed windows with substandard flashing,  

Mold can be responsible for many ailments including respiratory problems like wheezing, and difficulty breathing; dry hacky coughs, nose and throat irritation and more. Everyone reacts different to mold and some may have mild reactions, children and the elderly are more likely to experience more severe effects.

During the home inspection process, your home inspector may or may not uncover mold. If mold present or appears to be present, samples can be taken for testing to be sure. There is usually a separate lab charge involved but it will verify whether or not mold is present. 

A little prevention today goes a long way tomorrow. Remember, mold needs moisture, so be sure to avoid moisture buildup and fix leaks immediately.

Win Win Inspections offers customers complete mold remediation and PREVENTION services. Give us a call and find out more about combating this issue in your home or business.

Home Interior
Finishes
Maintenance
Follow these maintenance suggestions for the finishes in your home’s kitchen and bath.

CAUTION!
Don’t use an abrasive cleaner on any of these finishes. Abrasive cleaners can scratch and dull the surface.

Enamel finishes
Be careful with metal utensils, sharp utensils, pots and pans, etc. Scraping or banging these objects in a sink gradually scratches and dulls the enamel, making it susceptible to stains that become increasingly difficult to remove. A blow from a heavy or sharp object will chip the surface.
Clean an enamel finish with a non-abrasive cleaner. Strong abrasive cleaners can dull or stain enamel in a short period of time.

TIP!
Porcelain is a type of enamel finish. If you chip a porcelain finish, you have several options for repair. You can refinish the surface with a bottle of liquid porcelain from your local hardware store. While this option is inexpensive, it doesn’t last long or look very good. You can hire a professional porcelain refinisher to refinish it, which is typically your best option. Reglazing, a third option, is the most expensive and isn’t worth the effort unless the chipped object is very valuable.

Stainless steel finishes
Clean a stainless steel finish with warm water and a non-abrasive cleaner or a commercial stainless steel cleaner. Dry completely after cleaning.
Rinse a stainless steel sink after each use to remove chloride residue found in most soaps, detergents, and cleaners.
Scrub a stainless steel sink once a week; this will help keep the finish looking lustrous.
Clean a stainless steel sink occasionally by filling it ¼ full with a 50/50 solution of water and bleach. Let the solution stand for 15 minutes. Drain the solution while washing the sides and bottom of the sink. Rinse thoroughly.
Be careful when washing dishes in the sink. Stainless steel sinks will dent when they receive a strong impact.
Wipe the surface dry after each use. Don’t allow soaps, salts, or water to dry on it.
Don’t use steel wool pads. They can remove the finish.
Don’t use a stainless steel sink as a chopping block or cutting board. Knives will scratch the finish, and the stainless steel will dull your knives.
Don’t set hot pots and pans directly on stainless steel, as doing so may discolor the metal.

CAUTION!
Wet sponges, cloths, and cleaning pads left on the sink surface can lead to discoloration, pitting, and rust.

Chrome, nickel, and brass finishes
Clean chrome finishes with a soft cloth and a non-abrasive wax polish. Otherwise, chrome needs very little maintenance.
Clean nickel and brass with a non-abrasive cleaner, and then buff them with a soft cloth.
Wipe up water spots with a soft cloth. Don’t allow water to dry on the finish.

TIP!
There are many finishes in your home. Refer to the manufacturer’s recommendations for the most up-to-date care and maintenance information.

Renovation, Repair and Painting (RRP) Implementation Progress

Background

Lead paint poisoning affects over one million children today. Adverse health effects include learning disabilities, behavioral problems, and speech delays. If not done in a lead-safe manner, renovations and repair activities that disturb lead-based paint can expose children, as well as adults, to harmful levels of lead dust.

On April 22, 2008, EPA issued a rule requiring the use of lead-safe work practices aimed at preventing lead poisoning in children. On April 22, 2010, the rule becomes effective and firms performing renovation, repair and painting projects that disturb lead-based paint in homes, child care facilities, and schools built before 1978 must be certified, individual renovators must be trained by an EPA-accredited training provider, and the firms and renovators must follow specific work practices to prevent lead contamination. EPA estimates that the costs to contractors to follow the work practices will range from $8 to $167 per job, with the exception of those exterior jobs where vertical containment would be required.

To become a certified renovator, individuals are required to take eight hours of training, of which two hours must be hands-on training, to become certified. This training is good for five years. The cost of this training is set by individual training providers, not by EPA. In addition, renovation firms must be certified by EPA or by a state authorized by EPA to administer its own program. Firm certification is easy; firms need to send in a two-page application to EPA and pay a fee of $300. Certification is good for five years.

Training Capacity

Map of United States showing numbers of RRP training courses offered by state. See larger image.

EPA has approved 190 training providers. Of these training providers, more than 90 are accredited to provide training in multiple states. A number of industry organizations are accredited training providers and are expected to train large numbers of renovators in their industry sector. For example:

- A large window manufacturer and installer is an EPA-accredited training provider and has scheduled trainings in multiple states.

- A number of non-governmental organizations and private vendors are EPA-accredited training providers and conduct trainings in multiple states across the country. You can search for an EPA-accredited training provider near you.

Even states that do not yet have fixed training providers in their state have had multiple training courses offered in their state.

As of April 5, 2010, training providers have reported that there have been more than 4,900 training courses offered, and EPA estimates that more than 100,000 renovators have been trained. EPA projects that by the April 22 deadline, an additional 1,000 courses will be completed and an additional 25,000 renovators will be trained, bringing the number of trained renovators to more than 125,000 by that time.

In addition, EPA continues to evaluate training provider applications and this number will continue to grow. In particular, EPA has been working with the Laborers’ International Union of North America (LiUNA) to accredit their local affiliates as RRP training providers. LiUNA has estimated that they can easily train more than 50,000 additional renovators. EPA’s estimate of more than 200,000 renovators that will conduct renovation jobs in pre-1978 housing and in child-care facilities and schools is based on the total number of renovation jobs that EPA projected would occur between April 22, 2010, and April 22, 2011. EPA expects that even greater numbers of renovators will seek and obtain training once the rule has been implemented.

                                                                                                                        April 5, 2010

Greetings,

As many of you may be aware the US EPA has recently enacted the rule concerning LEAD in commercial and residential properties (40 CFR 745.80 to .91) Listed in 2008 Federal Register. The rule goes into effect on April 22,2010. This rule has tough new regulations concerning how and when to inspect and test as well as clean up the effected areas in properties older than 1978.

 The information for procedure and rule is found on the EPA website and I will have this info available to all clients as well.

Knowing your responsibility under this new rule can make your part in this less complicated.

The fines for violations can be as much as $32,500.00 per day per violation. Compliance is not optional.

Win Win Inspections will be your certified source for inspection, testing, and abatement of any LEAD situations that you may encounter.

 We also continue to do Indoor Air quality testing and inspection for those who may need this service. (prices start at $250.00)  

The testing and inspection price schedule for LEAD services will be available on request.

Reports, clearance letters, results, and remediation protocols, and warranties will be offered at the time of services also.

Win Win Inspections hopes to be your source for any, and all your inspection needs.

Please Call 386-846-5368. Thank you.

Sincerely,

Bob Wentz

Inspector

CIAQT #2842

IAC2-01-2730

ICC#8025754-B1

InterNACHI#07062604