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		<title>When to Inspect an Attic and when not to inspect!</title>
		<link>https://www.winwininspections.com/when-to-inspect-an-attic-and-when-not-to-inspect/</link>
		<comments>https://www.winwininspections.com/when-to-inspect-an-attic-and-when-not-to-inspect/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 17 Feb 2012 20:37:34 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description><![CDATA[When to Inspect an Attic By David Brauner, Editor Fritz Kelly, inspecting for 12 years in Arizona, has a problem common to inspectors: “I declined to go into an attic the other day. The access was in the master bedroom closet, full of clothes, etc. When I attempted to open the scuttle cover, it was [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>When to Inspect an Attic</p>
<p>By David Brauner, Editor</p>
<div>
<p>Fritz Kelly, inspecting for 12 years in Arizona, has a problem common to inspectors: “I declined to go into an attic the other day. The access was in the master bedroom closet, full of clothes, etc. When I attempted to open the scuttle cover, it was obvious there were about 15 inches of blown in insulation covering it. I was able to access another portion of the attic so I knew approximately how much insulation was up there,” said Kelly. “I wrote up that I didn&#8217;t access that portion of the attic due to excessive insulation on the hatch cover. I suppose I could spend half an hour or so covering their clothing and cleaning up but what do you do when the cover is heavily caulked in place and you will damage drywall removing it? I usually report that the seller needs to provide access but with these short sales, the inspection period is usually very short.”</p>
<p>Rick Hurst, inspecting the Dallas/Fort Worth area for 23 years, says he also uses caution when inspecting an attic, from experience. “Several years ago I removed a panel on the ceiling in a master bedroom closet and down fell a large amount of Rockwool insulation all over this lady’s clothes, including a mink coat,” said Hurst. “She wanted me to pay a cleaning bill of over $450. I was hesitant at first but paid the bill feeling at the time that I was at fault. Now, if the panel is not fully accessible, I write it up as such and move on. I tell the client that if the homeowner will remove items that are blocking my access, I&#8217;ll be happy to comeback for a return trip charge. I take pictures of the panel being blocked or that is otherwise non-accessible and put it in my report.”</p>
</div>
<p><span style="font-family: Verdana;"><em>(story continues below)<br />
</em></span><br />
<a href="http://www.orep.org/home-inspectors-e%26o.htm" target="_blank"><img src="http://www.workingre.com/workingre/images/459X268-orep.png" alt="" width="459" height="268" border="0" /></a><span style="font-family: Verdana;"></p>
<p></span><span style="font-family: Verdana;"><em>(story continues)</em></span></p>
<p><strong>Useful Language</strong><br />
To address this issue, one inspector said he uses language similar to the following: &#8220;Inaccessible. Sometimes loose insulation has been blown over the access hatch, in which case it will not be opened. This situation should be rectified after taking possession of the house.&#8221; Or &#8220;Inspector can only review this area if access is made available to the inspector.&#8221; And &#8220;If concerned, client should verify acceptable heating/cooling bills from homeowner. Client has the right to interview the homeowner to assume proper insulation and attic ventilation by confirming if homeowner has ever observed ice damming, icicles on eaves or abnormal melting of snow from the roof compared to other homes in the area- all of which are signs of improper insulation and attic ventilation. If available, client may wish to obtain design specifications, blue prints, permits, etc. to determine insulation, ventilation, and structure.&#8221;</p>
<p>Jack Feldmann, inspecting in Tennessee since 1989, says he often goes the extra mile. “It&#8217;s a tough call. I have also paid a cleaning bill,” said Feldmann. “However, I have taken clothes out of the closet with the help of the real estate agent. I&#8217;ve put an old sheet over the clothes, and many, many times I have cleaned up the insulation that fell down. Sometimes when there are two access points, I can climb over to the other side and get in that part of the attic anyway. I don&#8217;t have a problem cutting a caulk line to get access. I need to get in and it can be re-caulked. Same thing for electrical panels. Most of the time, I will cut wallpaper or caulking to get into one. Many times I have to chip out paint from the screw heads to open it. If you don&#8217;t go in the attic or anywhere for that matter, document it well in the report as to WHY you didn&#8217;t go in there. Photos are a plus.”</p>
<p><strong>Gearing Up<br />
</strong>Jon Errickson, inspecting Twin Cities, Minnesota for two years, says he takes gear along for just such an occasion. “I carry a six by six foot tarp to put down under my ladder to hopefully catch most of the insulation that falls,” said Errickson. “The only attics that I don&#8217;t go in are the ones where the ceiling has the &#8216;popcorn&#8217; texture and it seals the attic scuttle. But I tell the buyers I&#8217;ll come back and look if they don&#8217;t mind me cutting in to it to get access.”</p>
<p>Michael O’Handley, inspecting in Washington since 1996, says, “I move blown-in all the time. I also cut the caulk on access hatches when I need to. Just have the selling agent call the listing agent and make it clear to the seller, through the listing agent, that you have no intention of re-caulking or paying to have it re-caulked. If the seller refuses to allow you to do it or says you have to re-caulk it or pay to have it re-caulked, decline to cut the seal and exclude the attic. It only takes a couple of minutes to hang some old sheets over the stuff in the closet (shoes are great for anchoring the sheets in place on top of stuff), leaving the floor the only thing that will get dumped on and I have a six by six foot tarp for that. Most of the time the installers around here have formed a dam around the hatch with batt insulation and have cut a large piece of batting to sit on the hatch, so the only thing that falls through is a little over-blow. However, occasionally there aren&#8217;t any dams and I&#8217;ll get a little cascade. I just collect most of it when I come back out, toss it up into the attic, and vacuum up the residue,” said O’Handley. “For the stuff that inevitably falls down, I have a hand vacuum that I bought for four dollars at a thrift store. It&#8217;s powerful with a beater bar on it. It will compact a large amount of loose-fill into its little cloth bag in seconds and leave the place nice and clean. In 13 plus years I&#8217;ve never gotten a complaint from a homeowner or had to pay a cleaning fee and I&#8217;ve discovered literally hundreds, maybe thousands of things in attics that would have earned me poor reviews from clients if they&#8217;d been discovered after the clients moved in.”</p>
<p>Dave Hill, inspecting since 2005 in Arizona, has this take: “I carry several small clips to hold a sheet in place to cover clothes and catch that darn loose fill. I usually state/disclose that I only inspect from the HVAC platform in the attic since most joists are covered with insulation. They can have a handyman come out and do a further evaluation as desired. I don&#8217;t risk going through the ceiling unless I see something that warrants closer inspection,” said Hill, adding this important tip: “I always wear a bump cap. Like a hardhat but similar to a baseball-style cap. My head hit an ‘air nail’ in the sheathing once and after that I never enter without head protection. My LED headlight is attached to the cap so I have light wherever I look.”</p>
<p>M<span style="font-family: Verdana;">ichael Patton, inspecting throughout </span><span style="font-family: Verdana;">Cincinnati, Indiana &amp; Northern Kentucky</span><span style="font-family: Verdana;"> for nine years, has his own way of doing things. “</span><span style="font-family: Verdana;">Currently I do not carry sheets or tarps, I probably should but don’t. One easy, fast trick that I have been using is to make use of the plastic dry cleaners bags. I pull out a couple of the clothes with the bags over them and hook the hanger perpendicular to the rod and drape the clothes/bags across the other clothes. Usually enough of these are in the closet to provide adequate protection of the hanging clothes. Yes I still have to clean up the floor on occasion but this prevents me from having to go back and forth to the truck with the tarps and sweepers etc.,” said Patton. “For the most part, I will open just about any ceiling hatch; yes I have cut them open and yes I have had trouble getting the big Styrofoam-backed panels back in place. Yes, I have emptied closets out, muttering under my breath the entire time.”</p>
<p></span><strong>To Inspect or Not<br />
</strong>Jim McMillan, inspecting in North and South Carolina since 1998, says he weighs the liability of each inspection choice. “With many of my inspection-related tasks I weigh what my liability potential is if I do certain things. To me, liability means ‘money out of pocket,’” said McMillan.  “Whenever I encounter a circumstance that could be a safety hazard or an accessibility concern, I consider as many of the consequences of my actions as possible and make a call on inspecting or not. This includes safely accessing attic and under floor crawlspaces, electrical panels, utility areas, roofs, etc. If, in my mind as a professional, there is a legitimate issue, I will explain to the client or agent what the issue is, ask if the agent or owner has means (within reason) of resolving the issue while I am doing my inspection, and if not, I make the appropriate reference in my report with pictures.  In North Carolina the inspection is required to be completed in a single day for reporting purposes. If there are areas or components that I cannot inspect within that day I will offer, <em>for a fee</em>, to return and inspect inaccessible areas or components at a later date.”</p>
<p>McMillan continues, “We are being paid to perform a service, and often (due to competition and the economy) that pay is not what I think it should be. However, I still feel that I should do absolutely as much as I can for my clients in order to educate and inform them. As long as we are professional in our demeanor, honest in our actions and reporting, and comply with any inspection regulations that are in affect in our respective states, it is my belief that we have the right to choose not to inspect or access areas/components that in our opinion can&#8217;t be safely or adequately inspected.”<strong></p>
<p>Pre-Inspection Tip<br />
</strong>Daniel Rogers, inspecting Southeast Virginia since 1991, says he does a bit of ground work <em>before </em>the<em> </em>inspection that pays off. “The first thing everyone gets from me is an appointment confirmation e-mail. This goes out to the client and agents for both sides. It includes all the pertinent inspection information like day and time, price, payment expected, copy of inspection agreement, what to expect the day of, etc. It also states that utilities have been confirmed to be turned on during the phone call. Also, all areas must be accessible, like the attic, furnace, water heater, electric panel and crawlspace and I ask that they please make any necessary arrangements with sellers to make this happen,” said Rogers. “When I arrive at the home, I make a quick walk through to size things up. If I see any inaccessible areas I let them know that they&#8217;ll need to provide access by the time I get back in and then I go outside and get started. I will not take any liability risk but I do help within reason to get the job done. The opportune word is ‘help,’ meaning that I might hang the sheet, cut the caulk line, clear most of the area. However, I solicit and engage and recruit the hearts and minds of the other parties too. If it&#8217;s not reasonably accessible, then I take photos and document it as an inspection limitation and recommend re-inspection upon access clearance. I even document houses that are dark and cluttered because I know that no one ever remembers that and they&#8217;ll act like: ‘How could you miss that?’ Easy, look at the photos.”</p>
<p><span style="font-family: Verdana;">For inspector Ted Menelly, inspecting for 20 years throughout the Dallas/Fort Worth area, c</span><span style="font-family: Verdana;">harging to go back, for a fee, makes better sense than the removal of clothes from the closet, cutting a sealed hatch open, etc. “It is not just a matter of covering clothes most of the time. It is trying to squeeze into a closet and set the ladder up and not mash the clothes or push them out of the way,” said Menelly. “I don’t think we are inconveniencing a client by charging them to go back. We are the ones being put out. We are the ones taking a risk of damaging great Aunt Mable&#8217;s blouse that someone puts a $1,000 price tag on. If the question is how far we should go to make one client happy, in cases where something can be damaged or you have to move personal items, etc., the answer for me will always be- not that far at all. </span><strong>That $1,000 for Aunt Mable&#8217;s blouse is three to three and a half average inspections. We go out of our way on most inspections to accommodate our clients but there are limits. It is our job and our livelihood. We cannot afford to give away the next three to four inspections.&#8221;<br />
</strong><span style="font-family: Verdana;"><strong><br />
Disclaimer: </strong>This article is meant to be used for informational purposes only. It is not the intent of this article to provide inspection advice, or advice for any specific fact, situation or circumstance.</p>
<p><strong><a href="http://www.workingre.com/workingre/Dont-inspect-for-pests-sued-anyway-page.html" target="_blank">Don&#8217;t Inspect for Pests &#8211; Sued Anyway</a></strong></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana;"><strong><br />
About the Author </strong><br />
</span><span style="font-family: Verdana;">David Brauner is Editor of <em>Working RE</em> magazine and Senior Broker at <a href="http://www.orep.org/" target="_blank">OREP.org</a>, a leading provider of E&amp;O Insurance for appraisers, inspectors and other real estate professionals in 49 states. He has covered the appraisal profession for over 16 years. He can be contacted at <a title="mailto:dbrauner@orep.org" href="mailto:dbrauner@orep.org">dbrauner@orep.org</a> or (888) 347-5273. Calif. Insurance Lic. #0C89873</span><span style="font-family: Verdana;">.</span></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>I also would refrain from opening that hatch as an inspection is mostly visual and as long as note is made that it was not accessible then you have fulfilled your obligation as an inspector. I always let my client know that there may be some areas that are not going to be inspected due to either access or safety reasons.</p>
<p>Bob Wentz</p>
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		<title>Inspecting Rust</title>
		<link>https://www.winwininspections.com/inspecting-rust/</link>
		<comments>https://www.winwininspections.com/inspecting-rust/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 05 Jan 2012 15:23:10 +0000</pubDate>
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				<category><![CDATA[Blog]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[ Inspection Article: &#8220;Rust Prevention and Inspection&#8221;  www.nachi.org/rust-inspection-prevention Rusting describes the process of the corrosion of iron and its alloy, steel.  Inspectors, homeowners and commercial property owners should understand how rust forms and how to prevent it.  Rust is more than a cosmetic issue; it can lead to serious structural deterioration. More inspection articles like this: [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div align="center"> Inspection Article:<strong> &#8220;Rust Prevention and Inspection&#8221;</strong><strong> </strong></div>
<div align="left">
<div align="center"><a href="http://r20.rs6.net/tn.jsp?llr=94zrcxcab&amp;et=1109040784697&amp;s=13521&amp;e=001qBml6_9E3AdqSV4OINIyye_q59VVT9Zu14mHr8PQVMSsyFDwFMJazFhsBp_dBtc0ceqwYI2ZXUMOZbhaOfTtp1_yGLAhfOet1BXi_1uFsgR8e3bLyv_Xgmb22Eas_fGV9QgBgzUQZbbqWOPRfxCffw==" shape="rect" target="_blank"><img src="http://ih.constantcontact.com/fs025/1102433544186/img/749.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="291" border="0" hspace="5" vspace="5" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.nachi.org/rust-inspection-prevention.htm" shape="rect" target="_blank">www.nachi.org/rust-inspection-prevention</a></p>
</div>
<div>Rusting describes the process of the corrosion of iron and its alloy, steel.  Inspectors, homeowners and commercial property owners should understand how rust forms and how to prevent it.  Rust is more than a cosmetic issue; it can lead to serious structural deterioration.</div>
</div>
<div align="center">
<ul>
<li>More inspection articles like this: <a href="http://r20.rs6.net/tn.jsp?llr=94zrcxcab&amp;et=1109040784697&amp;s=13521&amp;e=001qBml6_9E3Adyorrnee_vRYj7yuvG4NlTORlfaco2enkzmuK3nkSpm8dvyJchHmDILJC6ay_sngpptyGDdHcnEpgIu_yyJ5ME3ckmw0uXuMSJhMFj9f2F3H6uz07GSRtZ" shape="rect" target="_blank">www.nachi.org/articles</a>.</li>
</ul>
<div>&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;</p>
<p>Inspection Video: <strong>&#8220;Performing an Energy Audit&#8221;</strong></div>
<p><a href="http://r20.rs6.net/tn.jsp?llr=94zrcxcab&amp;et=1109040784697&amp;s=13521&amp;e=001qBml6_9E3Ae-bRseOoIyw1HJkhpwmfwUs4hibJHTcopWD2nY0Fe81h3xvzpfwl85hbinCmlaOGtuZBc7bAVQGtNqllbnJLFuU-y2jS6w3vvePwPXC9D0vzLljOOG8dh8qEPEN9B78qk=" shape="rect" target="_blank"><img src="http://ih.constantcontact.com/fs025/1102433544186/img/750.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="225" border="0" hspace="5" vspace="5" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.nachi.org/bpi-training-video.htm" shape="rect" target="_blank">www.nachi.org/bpi-training-video</a></p>
<ul>
<li>More inspection videos like this: <a href="http://www.nachi.tv/" shape="rect" target="_blank">www.nachi.tv</a></li>
</ul>
<div>&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8211;</div>
</div>
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		<title>Indoor Air Quality</title>
		<link>https://www.winwininspections.com/indoor-air-quality-3/</link>
		<comments>https://www.winwininspections.com/indoor-air-quality-3/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 09 Sep 2011 17:22:45 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description><![CDATA[Today&#8217;s new homes are better insulated, are more tightly sealed, and have fewer holes in the exterior shell than ever before. While these advances in technology and building science have greatly improved energy efficiency in new homes, they have also helped foster a potentially harmful environment for the homeowner. Indoor air quality (IAQ) is rapidly [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Today&#8217;s new homes are better insulated, are more tightly sealed, and have fewer holes in the exterior shell than ever before. While these advances in technology and building science have greatly improved energy efficiency in new homes, they have also helped foster a potentially harmful environment for the homeowner.<br />
Indoor air quality (IAQ) is rapidly becoming a concern among health care professionals and builders. According to the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), the air quality within a home may be five times as unhealthy as the air outside. Poor IAQ can lead to many health issues, including headaches; eye, nose, and throat irritation; fatigue; and dizziness. Poor IAQ can also trigger asthma attacks, as well as pneumonitis and humidifier fever.<br />
Some of the major offenders in creating poor IAQ are carbon monoxide, pet dander, dust mites, and mold spores. Air conditioning systems are very often a primary source for many different types of contaminants found inside a homes environment.<br />
When a new home is under construction, builders have the best chance to help create a clean breathing environment for their customers. By being aware of the factors that can contribute to poor IAQ, builders can work proactively to install systems within the home that can lead to a more comfortable and healthy living environment.<br />
Here are a few of the causes of poor IAQ and solutions that builders can implement.<br />
•	Common combustion appliances, such as furnaces and hot water heaters, produce carbon monoxide, which is normally vented through the flue to the outside. Sometimes, through a process known as back drafting, this dangerous gas can be released into the home. To prevent back drafting, builders should install sealed combustion appliances. A sealed combustion furnace has two pipes, one to draw fresh air for combustion and another used to push exhaust fumes out of the house. These units are installed with a fan that maintains proper airflow to ensure that back drafting of harmful fumes can&#8217;t occur.<br />
•	Another contributor to poor IAQ is volatile organic compounds, or VOCs. VOCs are often noticed as that &#8220;new car smell&#8221; in the home. These invisible vapors are a result of cleaning and finishing chemicals used within the home during construction; paint, varnish, and cleaning products emit VOCs. Builders should try to reduce the residual fumes from construction as much as possible before the homeowner moves in. To do so, builders should make sure that the workspace is well ventilated and that HVAC systems have fresh filters. Also, there are many cleaning and finishing products now available that are specifically designed to reduce VOCs.<br />
•	One of the most significant choices a builder can make to help create a clean, healthy breathing environment within the new home is to install an independent ventilation system. These ventilation systems remove dangerous elements from the air. By filtering household air and circulating fresh air into the home, these systems can greatly improve the home&#8217;s IAQ, especially in areas like the kitchen and bathroom.<br />
Builders who strive to build durable, comfortable, and safe homes may find that potential customers respond well to efforts to improve their indoor air quality. By being proactive, builders not only deliver a healthier home, they create a competitive advantage for themselves in an environmentally conscious market. </p>
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		<title>Hurricane Safety Tips</title>
		<link>https://www.winwininspections.com/hurricane-safety-tips/</link>
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		<pubDate>Fri, 26 Aug 2011 19:50:26 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description><![CDATA[For Immediate Release: Aug. 26, 2011 www.iccsafe.org Contact: Steve Daggers 1-888-ICC-SAFE (422-7233) ext. 4212 1-708-351-8880 (cell) Hurricane Safety Tips for the Public and Code Officials As Hurricane Irene approaches the East Coast, the public can take precautionary steps (www.iccsafe.org/hurricane) to help minimize damages and ensure their safety before, during and after the storm. Governmental jurisdictions [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>For Immediate Release:<br />
Aug. 26, 2011<br />
www.iccsafe.org<br />
Contact: Steve Daggers<a href="http://www.iccsafe.org"><br />
1-888-ICC-SAFE (422-7233) ext. 4212<br />
1-708-351-8880 (cell) </p>
<p>Hurricane Safety Tips for the<br />
Public and Code Officials<br />
 As Hurricane Irene approaches the East Coast, the public can take precautionary steps (www.iccsafe.org/hurricane) to help minimize damages and ensure their safety before, during and after the storm. Governmental jurisdictions preparing for Irene also have resources available to assist with post-hurricane recovery efforts.<br />
 “As a member-based organization, the International Code Council is dedicated to assisting jurisdictions prior to and in the aftermath of Hurricane Irene or any other natural disaster,” said ICC Chief Executive Officer Richard P. Weiland. “As always, with an array of expertise and services, we are ready, willing and able to help.”<br />
 With Hurricane Irene expected to make landfall this weekend, the Code Council encourages citizens to take the following safety steps:<br />
 Before the storm<br />
•	Bring in outdoor objects such as lawn furniture, toys, and garden tools. Anchor objects that cannot be brought inside.<br />
•	Check/replace emergency supplies and store bottled drinking water.<br />
•	Review evacuation plans.<br />
•	Keep a supply of flashlights and extra batteries handy.<br />
 During the storm<br />
•	Listen to a battery-operated radio or television for hurricane progress reports.<br />
•	Stay inside, away from windows, skylights, and glass doors.<br />
•	Keep a supply of flashlights and extra batteries handy.<br />
•	If an evacuation is ordered, leave as soon as possible.<br />
•	Avoid flooded roads and watch for washed-out bridges.<br />
•	Secure your home by unplugging appliances and turning off electricity and the main water valve.<br />
 After the storm<br />
•	Stay tuned to local radio for information.<br />
•	Return home only after authorities say that it is safe to do so.<br />
•	Avoid loose or dangling power lines and report them immediately to the power company, police, or fire department.<br />
•	Enter your home with caution.<br />
•	Beware of snakes, insects, and animals driven to higher ground by flood water.<br />
•	Open windows and doors to ventilate and dry your home.<br />
•	Take pictures of any damage to the house and its contents for insurance claims.<br />
•	Drive only if absolutely necessary and avoid flooded roads and washed-out bridges.<br />
•	Use the telephone only for emergency calls.<br />
 Jurisdictions in need of assistance following the storm can access the Disaster Response Network, a database of volunteers who are available to assist with building damage assessment, building inspections and other code-related functions. Jurisdictions seeking assistance can email volunteer@iccsafe.org. Code officials in regions not affected by the storm are encouraged to join the volunteer force. </p>
<p>Lt. General Russel L. Honoré,<br />
USA (Ret.)<br />
 The Code Council offers tools such as education seminars and certifications to help jurisdictions respond to hurricanes and other disasters. Two examples are the When Disaster Strikes – An Institute for Disaster Response seminar designed to provide code officials the skills and tools to become a Disaster Response Inspector; and the Disaster Response Inspector national certification, which validates that knowledge to respond to disaster sites with a specific emphasis on code provisions.<br />
 Other tools include events such as the ICC Foundation Luncheon at the Code Council’s fall 2011 Annual Conference and Final Action Hearings in Phoenix, where Lt. General Russel L. Honoré, USA (Ret.) will serve as the keynote speaker. Honoré, who led the Joint Task Force-Katrina – the U.S. Department of Defense’s response to Hurricanes Katrina and Rita in Alabama, Mississippi and Louisiana—will discuss “The New Normal: Leadership and Preparedness in the 21st Century.”<br />
 The International Code Council is a member-focused association dedicated to helping the building safety community and construction industry provide safe, sustainable and affordable construction through the development of codes and standards used in the design, build and compliance process. Most U.S. communities and many global markets choose the International Codes.</p>
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		<title>Mold Assessments</title>
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		<pubDate>Fri, 01 Apr 2011 18:44:15 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description><![CDATA[Health effects Main article: Mold health issues Molds are ubiquitous in nature, and mold spores are a common component of household and workplace dust. However, when spores are present in large quantities, they are a health hazard to humans, potentially causing allergic reactions and respiratory problems. Some molds also produce mycotoxins that can pose serious [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Health effects<br />
Main article: Mold health issues</p>
<p>Molds are ubiquitous in nature, and mold spores are a common component of household and workplace dust. However, when spores are present in large quantities, they are a health hazard to humans, potentially causing allergic reactions and respiratory problems.</p>
<p>Some molds also produce mycotoxins that can pose serious health risks to humans and animals. The term &#8220;toxic mold&#8221; refers to molds that produce mycotoxins, such as Stachybotrys chartarum, not to all molds.[1] Exposure to high levels of mycotoxins can lead to neurological problems and in some cases death. Prolonged exposure, e.g. daily workplace exposure, can be particularly harmful.<br />
[edit] Causes &amp; growing conditions</p>
<p>Molds are found everywhere inside and outside, and can grow on almost any substance when moisture is present. Molds reproduce by spores, which can be carried by air currents. When these spores land on a moist surface that is suitable for life, they begin to grow. Mold is normally found indoors at levels that do not affect most healthy individuals.</p>
<p>Because common building materials are capable of sustaining mold growth, and mold spores are ubiquitous, mold growth in an indoor environment is typically related to water or moisture indoors. Mold growth may also be caused by incomplete drying of flooring materials such as concrete.[2] Flooding, leaky roofs, building maintenance problems, or indoor plumbing problems can lead to mold growth inside homes, schools, or office buildings.</p>
<p>For significant mold growth to occur, there must be a source of water (which could be invisible humidity), a source of food, and a substrate capable of sustaining growth. Common building materials, such as plywood, drywall, furring strips, carpets, and carpet padding are food for molds. In carpet, invisible dust and cellulose are the food sources (see also dust mites). After a single incident of water damage occurs in a building, molds grow inside walls and then become dormant until a subsequent incident of high humidity; this illustrates how mold can appear to be a sudden problem, long after a previous flood or water incident that did not produce such a problem. The right conditions reactivate mold. Studies also show that mycotoxin levels are perceptibly higher in buildings that have once had a water incident (source: CMHC).<br />
Although this home suffered only minor exterior damage from Hurricane Katrina, small leaks and inadequate air flow permitted this mold infestation.</p>
<p>Spores need three things to grow into mold:</p>
<p>Nutrients: Cellulose is a common food for spores in an indoor environment.<br />
Moisture: Moisture is required to begin the decaying process caused by the mold.<br />
Time: Mold growth begins between 24 hours and 10 days from the provision of the growing conditions. There is no known way to date mold.</p>
<p>Mold colonies can grow inside building structures. The main problem with the presence of mold in buildings is the inhalation of mycotoxins. Molds may produce an identifiable smell. Growth is fostered by moisture. After a flood or major leak, mycotoxin levels are higher in the building even after it has dried out (source: CMHC).</p>
<p>Food sources for molds in buildings include cellulose-based materials, such as wood, cardboard, and the paper facing on both sides of drywall, and all other kinds of organic matter, such as soap, fabrics, and dust containing skin cells. If a house has mold, the moisture may be from the basement or crawl space, a leaking roof, or a leak in plumbing pipes behind the walls. People residing in a house also contribute moisture through normal breathing and perspiration. Insufficient ventilation can further enable moisture build-up. Visible mold colonies may form where ventilation is poorest, and on perimeter walls, because they are coolest, thus closest to the dew point.</p>
<p>If there are mold problems in a house only during certain times of the year, then it is probably either too air-tight, or too drafty. Mold problems occur in airtight homes more frequently in the warmer months (when humidity reaches high levels inside the house, and moisture is trapped), and occur in drafty homes more frequently in the colder months (when warm air escapes from the living area into unconditioned space, and condenses). If a house is artificially humidified during the winter, this can create conditions favorable to mold. Moving air may prevent mold from growing since it has the same desiccating effect as lowering humidity. Keeping indoor air temperature higher than 74 °F (23 °C) also has an inhibiting effect on mold growth.[citation needed]</p>
<p>Because common building materials are capable of sustaining mold growth, and mold spores are ubiquitous, mold growth in an indoor environment is typically related to an indoor water or moisture problem. Leaky roofs, building maintenance problems, or indoor plumbing problems can lead to mold growth inside homes, schools, or office buildings. Another common cause of mold growth is flooding.</p>
<p>Removing one of the three requirements for mold reduces or eliminates the new growth of mold. These three requirements are 1) Moisture, 2) Food source for the mold spores (dust, dander, etc), and 3) Warmth (mold generally does not grow in cold environments).</p>
<p>HVAC systems can create all three requirements for significant mold growth. The A/C system creates a difference in temperature that allows/causes condensation to occur. The high rate of dusty air movement through an HVAC system may create ample sources of food sources for the mold. And finally, since the A/C system is not always running &#8211; the ability for warm conditions to exist on a regular basis allows for the final component for active mold growth.</p>
<p>Because the HVAC system circulates air contaminated with mold spores and sometimes toxins, it is vital to prevent any three of the environments required for mold growth. A) Highly effective return air filtration systems are available that eliminate up to 99.9% of dust accumulation (as compared to 5% elimination by typical HVAC air filters). These newer filtration systems usually require modification to existing HVAC systems to allow for the larger size of electrostatic 99.9% filters. However, thorough cleaning of the HVAC system is required before usage of high efficiency filtration systems will help. Once mold is established, the mold growth and dust accumulation must be removed. B) Insulation of supply air ducts helps to reduce or eliminate the condensation that ultimately creates the moisture required for mold growth. This insulation should be placed externally on the air ducts, because internal insulation provides a dust capture and breeding ground for mold.<br />
[edit] Assessment</p>
<p>The first step in an assessment is to determine if mold is present. This is done by visually examining the premises. If mold is growing and visible this helps determine the level of remediation that is necessary. If mold is actively growing and is visibly confirmed, sampling for specific species of mold is unnecessary.[3]</p>
<p>These methods, considered non-intrusive, only detect visible and odor-causing molds. Sometimes more intrusive methods are needed to assess the level of mold contamination. This would include moving furniture, lifting and/or removing carpets, checking behind wallpaper or paneling, checking in ventilation duct work, opening and exposing wall cavities, etc.</p>
<p>Careful detailed visual inspection and recognition of moldy odors should be used to find problems needing correction. Efforts should focus on areas where there are signs of liquid moisture or water vapor (humidity) or where moisture problems are suspected. The investigation goals should be to locate indoor mold growth to determine how to correct the moisture problem and remove contamination safely and effectively.</p>
<p>The basic goals of any mold investigation are always twofold: 1) find the locations of mold growth, and 2) determine the sources of the moisture. If these can be answered by simpler or more cost-effective methods, mold testing is probably not a wise use of resources.<br />
[edit] Sampling</p>
<p>In general the EPA does not recommend sampling unless an occupant of the space is symptomatic. When sampling is necessary it should be performed by a trained professional who has specific experience in designing mold-sampling protocols, sampling methods, and the interpretation of findings. Sampling should only be conducted to answer a pertinent question: examples &#8220;what is the spore concentration in the air&#8221;, or &#8220;is a particular species of fungi present in the building.&#8221; The additional question should be asked before sampling &#8220;what action can or should a person take upon obtaining data.&#8221;</p>
<p>The sampling and analysis should follow the recommendations of Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA), National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH), Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), and the American Industrial Hygiene Association (AIHA). Most importantly, when a sample is taken the proper chain of custody should be adhered to. The AIHA offers lists of accredited laboratories that submit to required quarterly proficiency testing.</p>
<p>Three types of air sampling include but are not limited to:</p>
<p>Air sampling: the most common form of sampling to assess the level of mold. Sampling of the inside and outdoor air is conducted and the results to the level of mold spores inside the premises and outside are compared. Often, air sampling will provide positive identification of the existence of non-visible mold.<br />
Surface samples: sampling the amount of mold spores deposited on indoor surfaces (swab, tape, and dust samples)<br />
Bulk samples: the removal of materials from the contaminated area to identify and determine the concentration of mold in the sample.</p>
<p>When sampling is conducted, all three types are recommended by the AIHA, as each sample method alone has specific limitations. For example, air samples will not provide proof a hidden source of mold. Nor would a swab sample provide the level of contamination in the air.[4]</p>
<p>Though it may not be recommended, air sampling following mold remediation is usually the best way to ascertain efficacy of remediation, when conducted by a qualified third party.[5]<br />
[edit] Remediation</p>
<p>The first step in solving an indoor mold problem is stopping the source of moisture. Next is to remove the mold growth. Common remedies for small occurrences of mold include:</p>
<p>Sunlight<br />
Ventilation<br />
Wall insulation<br />
Non-porous building materials<br />
Household cleansers</p>
<p>Significant mold growth may require professional mold remediation and removal of affected building materials. A conservative strategy is to discard any building materials saturated by the water intrusion or having visible mold growth.</p>
<p>There are many ways to prevent mold growth; see heating, ventilating, improved insulation and air conditioning, and dry fog.</p>
<p>In extreme cases of mold growth in buildings, it may be easier to condemn the building rather than clean the mold to safe levels. Alternatively, look into the possibility of applying external wall insulation. This has the benefit of increasing the wall temperature above the dew-point, thus helps prevent internal condensation which results in mould-growth.</p>
<p>Certain contractors are capable of repairing mold damage &#8211; usually by removing the affected areas and eliminating the cause of the excess moisture.</p>
<p>There are also cleaning companies that specialize in fabric restoration &#8211; a process by which mold and mold spores are removed from clothing to eliminate odor and prevent further mold growth and damage to the garments.</p>
<p>New technology also allows some mold remediation companies to fill a room with a dry fog that kills the mold and stops its growth. This fog uses a chemical that is EPA approved and does not harm or damage the physical well being of persons or animals.</p>
<p>Improper methods for cleaning mold include exposure to high heat, dry air, sunlight (particularly UV light), ozone, and application of fungicides. These methods may render the mold non-viable, however, the mold and its by-products can still elicit negative health effects. As noted in following sections, the only proper way to clean mold is to use detergent solutions that physically remove mold. Many commercially available detergents marketed for mold clean-up also include an anti-fungal agent. The most effective way at this point is formal Mold Remediation.</p>
<p>The goal of remediation is to remove or clean contaminated materials in a way that prevents the emission of fungi and dust contaminated with fungi from leaving a work area and entering an occupied or non-abatement area, while protecting the health of workers performing the abatement.[6]<br />
[edit] Cleanup and removal methods</p>
<p>The purpose of the clean-up process is to eliminate the mold and fungal growth and to remove contaminated materials. As a general rule, simply killing the mold with a biocide is not enough. The mold must be removed since the chemicals and proteins, which cause a reaction in humans, are still present even in dead mold.<br />
[edit] Dry ice freeze blasting</p>
<p>Recently, some companies have begun using dry ice freeze blasting to remove mold from suitable surfaces, such as wood and cement.<br />
[edit] Dry Fog</p>
<p>New technology is pointing to a dry chemical fog that fills a room and kills the mold throughout a specified area. This procedure allows mold to be remediated without the destruction or damage of the facility in question. It is also safe and far less expensive than older and more traditional remediation methods[citation needed] .<br />
[edit] Vacuum</p>
<p>Wet vacuum cleaners are designed to remove water from floors, carpets and other hard surfaces where water has accumulated. Wet vacuuming should only be used on wet materials, as spores may be exhausted into the indoor environment if insufficient liquid is present. After use this equipment must be thoroughly cleaned and dried as spores can adhere to the inner surfaces of the tank, hoses, and other attachments.<br />
[edit] Damp wipe</p>
<p>Damp wipe is the removal of mold from non-porous surfaces by wiping or scrubbing with water and a detergent. Care must be exercised to make sure the material is allowed to quickly dry to discourage any further mold growth. With surfaces such as metal, glass, hardwood, plastics, and concrete, mold should be scraped off as much as possible. Then, scrub the surface with a moldicide or fungicide cleaner.[citation needed]<br />
[edit] HEPA vacuum</p>
<p>High Efficiency Particulate Air filtered vacuum cleaners are used in the final cleanup of remediation areas after materials have been thoroughly dried and all contaminated materials have been removed. HEPA vacuum cleaners are recommended for the cleanup of the outside areas surrounding the remediation area. During this process the workers wear proper personal protective equipment (PPE) to prevent exposure to mold and other contaminants. The collected debris and dust should be stored in impervious bags or containers in a manner to prevent any release of debris.<br />
[edit] Disposal of debris and damaged materials</p>
<p>Building materials and furnishings contaminated with mold should be placed into impervious bags or closed containers while in the remediation area. These materials can usually be discarded as regular construction waste.<br />
[edit] Equipment</p>
<p>Several types of equipment may be used in the remediation process and may include:</p>
<p>Moisture meter: a tool that measures the moisture level in building materials. It can also be used to measure the progress of the drying of damaged materials. Pin moisture meters have a small probe that is inserted into the material. Pinless moisture meters usually have a flat sensing area that is pressed directly against the material&#8217;s surface.[7] Moisture meters can be used on carpet, wallboard, woods, brick, and other masonry.<br />
Humidity gauge: measures the amount of humidity in the indoor environment. Often gauges are paired with a thermometer to measure the temperature.<br />
Borescope: a hand-held tool that allows the user to see potential mold problems inside walls, ceilings, crawl spaces, and other tight spaces. It consists of a camera on the end of a flexible “snake”. No major drilling or cutting of dry wall is required.<br />
Digital camera: used to document findings during assessment.<br />
Personal protective equipment (PPE): includes respirators, gloves, impervious suit, and eye protection. These items can be used during the assessment and remediation processes.<br />
Thermographic camera : Infrared thermal imaging cameras are often used (and effective) in addition to moisture meters to double check moisture meter findings, and look at the broader picture. They help mainly in identifying auxiliary points of moisture intrusion.<br />
Dehumidifier :[citation needed] If you have high humidity in your home from things like aquariums or house plants, a dehumidifier can help bring down the level of moisture in the air. This in turn will reduce the chances that mold can build up within these areas of your home.</p>
<p>[edit] Protection levels</p>
<p>During the remediation process, the level of contamination dictates the level of protection for the remediation workers. The levels of contamination are described as Levels I, II, and III. Each has specific requirements for worker safety. The levels are as follows:<br />
[edit] Level I</p>
<p>Small Isolated Areas (10 sq. ft or less) for example, ceiling tiles, small areas on walls.</p>
<p>Remediation can be conducted by the regular building staff as long as they are trained on proper clean-up methods, personal protection, and potential hazards. This training can be performed as part of a program to comply with the requirements of OSHA Hazard Communication Standard ( 29 CFR 1910.1200).<br />
Respiratory protection (for example, N-95 disposable respirator) is recommended. Respirators must be used in accordance with the OSHA respiratory protection standard (29 CFR 1910.134). Gloves and eye protection should also be worn.<br />
The work area should be unoccupied. Removing people from spaces adjacent to the work area is not necessary, but is recommended for infants (less than 12 months old), persons recovering from recent surgery, immune-suppressed, or people with respiratory diseases.<br />
Containment of the work area is not necessary. However, misting and dust suppression is recommended.<br />
Contaminated materials that cannot be cleaned should be removed from the building in sealed impermeable plastic bags and disposed of as ordinary waste.<br />
The work area/areas used by workers for access/egress should be cleaned with a damp cloth or mop and a detergent.<br />
All areas should be left dry and visibly free of contamination and debris.</p>
<p>[edit] Level II</p>
<p>Mid-sized Isolated Areas (10-30 sq ft) – for example, individual wallboard panels.</p>
<p>Remediation can be conducted by the regular building staff as long as they are trained as for Level I. Respiratory protection, occupation of the work and adjacent areas, and handling of contaminated materials are the same as for Level I.<br />
Surfaces in the work area that could become contaminated should be covered with sheet(s) of plastic that are secured in place. This should be done prior to any remediation process to prevent further contamination.<br />
Dust suppression methods, such as misting (not soaking) surface prior to remediation, are recommended.<br />
The work area/areas used by workers for access/egress should be HEPA vacuumed and cleaned with a damp cloth or mop and a detergent.<br />
As with Level I, all areas should be left dry and visibly free of contamination and debris.</p>
<p>[edit] Level III</p>
<p>Large Isolated Areas (30-100 sq ft) – e.g., several wallboard panels</p>
<p>Industrial hygienists or other environmental health and safety professionals with experience performing microbial investigations and/or mold remediation should be consulted prior to remediation activities to provide oversight for the project.<br />
It is recommended that personnel be trained in the handling of hazardous materials and equipped with respiratory protection (N-95 disposable respirator). Respirators must be used in accordance with OSHA respiratory protection standard (29 CFR 1910.134) Gloves and eye protection should also be worn.<br />
Surfaces in the work area and areas directly adjacent that could become contaminated should be covered with a secured plastics sheet(s) before remediation to contain dust/debris and prevent further contamination.<br />
Seal ventilation ducts/grills in the work area and areas directly adjacent with plastic sheeting.<br />
The work area and areas directly adjacent should be unoccupied. Removing people from spaces adjacent to the work area is not necessary, but is recommended for infants (less than 12 month old), persons recovering from recent surgery, immune-suppressed or people with respiratory diseases.<br />
Dust suppression methods, such as misting (not soakings) surface prior to remediation, are recommended.<br />
Contaminated materials that cannot be cleaned should be removed from the building in sealed impermeable plastic bags and disposed of as ordinary waste.<br />
The work area/areas used by workers for access/egress should be HEPA vacuumed and cleaned with a damp cloth or mop and a detergent.<br />
All areas should be left dry and visibly free from contamination and debris.</p>
<p>[edit] Level IV</p>
<p>Extensive Contamination (greater than 100 contiguous sq. ft in an area).</p>
<p>Personnel trained in handling of hazardous materials and equipped with:<br />
Full face respirators with HEPA cartridges<br />
Disposable protective clothing covering the entire body including the head, shoes and hands<br />
Containment of the affected area:<br />
Complete isolation of the work area from occupied spaces using plastic sheeting sealed with duct tape ( including ventilation duct/grills, fixtures, and other openings<br />
The use of an exhaust fan with a HEPA filter to generate negative pressurization, a decontamination room, and airlocks<br />
Contaminated materials that cannot be cleaned should be removed from the building in sealed impermeable plastic bags and disposed of as ordinary waste.<br />
The contained area and decontamination room should be HEPA vacuumed and cleaned with a damp cloth or mopped with a detergent solution and be visibly clean prior to the removal of any isolation barrier.</p>
<p>In conclusion, after the moisture source has been eliminated and the mold growth removed, the premises should be revisited and then re-evaluated to ensure the mold growth and the remediation process was successful. The premises should be free of any moldy smells or visible growth.</p>
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		<title>New Home Inspections</title>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 28 Dec 2010 14:23:55 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description><![CDATA[Homeowners warn prospective buyers 77 Comments BY BILL WILSON and brent D. Wistrom The Wichita Eagle Is builders group too involved in City Hall? Caveat emptor is Latin for &#8220;let the buyer beware.&#8221; That&#8217;s the lesson a group of Maple Shade homeowners want prospective new home buyers to learn from their crumbling east-side Wichita subdivision. [...]]]></description>
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<h1>Homeowners warn prospective buyers</h1>
<p><a id="commentCount" href="http://www.kansas.com/2010/12/26/1647815/homeowners-warn-prospective-buyers.html#disqus_thread">77 Comments</a></p>
<h4>BY BILL WILSON and brent D. Wistrom</h4>
<h4>The Wichita Eagle</h4>
<div id="storyAssets">
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<ul>
<li> <a href="http://www.kansas.com/2010/12/26/1647814/is-builders-group-too-involved.html">Is builders group too involved in City Hall?</a></li>
</ul>
</div>
</div>
<p>Caveat emptor is Latin for &#8220;let the buyer beware.&#8221;</p>
<p>That&#8217;s the lesson a group of Maple Shade homeowners want  prospective new home buyers to learn from their crumbling east-side  Wichita subdivision.</p>
<p>Beware. Do your own homework because in the under-regulated  homebuilding business in Wichita, you&#8217;re on your own if you buy a new  home, the homeowners say.</p>
<p>&#8220;You buy a $140,000 house that you think is OK and the seller&#8217;s  just gone, never to be heard from again. And that&#8217;s OK,&#8221; said Will  Thomas, an Air Force pilot whose $140,000 home is cracking apart in the  Maple Shade development near Webb  and Harry.</p>
<p>There are gaps in the way the city building codes protect new  home buyers — a lack of basic soil testing and slab foundation  inspections, a city inspection department influenced by the builders, an  arbitration system with builders  hearing complaints about other builders.</p>
<p>That&#8217;s the largest of many frustrations before a group of people who&#8217;ve lost most of their money in the crumbling homes.</p>
<p>&#8220;There&#8217;s nothing to protect anyone in Wichita,&#8221; said Larry  Medlin, who lives in another Maple Shade home plagued by workmanship  issues. &#8220;It&#8217;s not just us. It&#8217;s the people who loaned us the money.  Everyone&#8217;s screwed.&#8221;</p>
<p>To a homeowner, the Maple Shade group believes they&#8217;ve been  abandoned by the city and the Wichita Area Builders Association:  Abandoned by a system tilted by years of political lobbying to make it  easier for builders to hold down  construction costs.</p>
<p>&#8220;Help us,&#8221; said Thomas&#8217; fiancee, Chelsee Andersen, her voice  rising. &#8220;It&#8217;s ridiculous that these houses are five years old and you&#8217;ve  got houses across town that are 100 years old and they&#8217;re fine. It just  doesn&#8217;t make any sense.&#8221;</p>
<p>It seems a buyer has more protection with a new car than a new  home in Wichita, said Steve Garner, whose three-year-old home has  already begun cracking.</p>
<p>Kansas law requires that a builder receive 90 days to repair or  pay for any defective construction before a homebuyer can file a  lawsuit.</p>
<p>&#8220;I paid $147,000 for my house and got a one-year warranty. When that ran out, everything became my responsibility,&#8221; Garner said.</p>
<p>&#8220;But I could go buy a brand new car today for $35,000 to $45,000 and you&#8217;re going to get a 10-year warranty,&#8221; Garner said.</p>
<p>Wichita city officials acknowledge they could have responded  quicker to the Maple Shade problem, which started with a complaint in  2008.</p>
<p>But city officials defend the protection its building codes offer homeowners, calling the crumbling homes an isolated problem.</p>
<p>&#8220;I don&#8217;t think we&#8217;ve abandoned them,&#8221; Mayor Carl Brewer said.  &#8220;We&#8217;re talking about this all week. I see how they feel that way because  it&#8217;s a huge investment and they don&#8217;t know what to do. This is the  first time we&#8217;ve had something of this  nature.&#8221;</p>
<p>Clint Miller did not return calls seeking comment for this story.</p>
<p>In a written statement responding to the Eagle&#8217;s initial November  stories on Maple Shade, Miller said it&#8217;s the first time he&#8217;s seen major  structural problems with his houses.</p>
<p>&#8220;We are as baffled by the situation as you are,&#8221; he said on Nov.  12 in a statement. &#8220;There may be a number of contributing factors, and  not just one thing that has caused the damage.</p>
<p>&#8220;Our hope is that we can come to a fair solution in this case, and take steps to prevent any similar issues in the future.&#8221;</p>
<p>City and builders officials have tried to deflect blame back on  the Maple Shade homeowners and their private home inspectors, saying  that&#8217;s where the system failed people like Betty Wiens, Garner, Thomas  and Andersen.</p>
<p>Medlin laughed at the notion.</p>
<p>&#8220;I can&#8217;t blame the home inspectors,&#8221; he said. &#8220;They can&#8217;t come in  here into a home that&#8217;s already built and dig under a foundation to see  what&#8217;s there.</p>
<p>&#8220;They can&#8217;t cut out parts of the slab to see if there&#8217;s actually  steel in there and if the foundation&#8217;s been prepared right underneath.</p>
<p>&#8220;They can&#8217;t take down the Sheetrock and see if the walls are  actually tied together or if they&#8217;re being held together with Sheetrock  and tape.&#8221;</p>
<p>Thomas agreed.</p>
<p>&#8220;Do your homework,&#8221; he said. &#8220;You can&#8217;t trust the seller&#8217;s  disclosure &#8230; I won&#8217;t trust the home inspector before I buy the house.  I&#8217;ll go through it with a fine tooth comb and look at every nook and  cranny, talk to the neighbors, look for  everything.&#8221;</p>
<p>&#8220;I wouldn&#8217;t have a problem with Clint if he would stand behind the product &#8230; and that&#8217;s not happening,&#8221; Garner said.</p>
<p>&#8220;As long as the city codes let him build this kind of a house&#8230; then where are you?</p>
<p>&#8220;Even if the new regs for the slabs and the soil get done, if  nobody follows it, the Wichita consumer is still going to get screwed.&#8221;</p>
<p>Read more: <a href="http://www.kansas.com/2010/12/26/1647815/homeowners-warn-prospective-buyers.html?storylink=omni_popular%3Fstorylink%3Dfbuser#ixzz19Ps86RzL">http://www.kansas.com/2010/12/26/1647815/homeowners-warn-prospective-buyers.html?storylink=omni_popular%3Fstorylink%3Dfbuser#ixzz19Ps86RzL</a></div>
</div>
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		<item>
		<title>Wind Storm Mitigation</title>
		<link>https://www.winwininspections.com/wind-storm-mitigation/</link>
		<comments>https://www.winwininspections.com/wind-storm-mitigation/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 23 Dec 2010 13:42:33 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Blog]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://winwininspections.com/?p=597</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[In 2005 the Florida legislature passed a law requiring all residential property insurance companies to file with the Office of Insurance Regulation (Office) a range of premium discounts they offer customers who live in homes of certain construction types or who apply loss mitigation devices (like shutters) to their homes. Accordingly, the Office sent the [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>In 2005 the Florida legislature passed a law requiring all  residential property insurance companies to file with the Office of  Insurance Regulation (Office) a range of premium discounts they offer  customers who live in homes of certain construction types or who apply  loss mitigation devices (like shutters) to their homes.</p>
<p>Accordingly,  the Office sent the following notice to all residential property  insurance companies on December 8, 2005: Informational Memorandum &#8211;  Premium Discounts for Hurricane Loss Mitigation instructing them to  electronically file their discounts with the Office and to start sending  the list of discounts to all new and renewed policies starting on  February 1, 2006.</p>
<p>Commissioner McCarty recognized this was a good  first step, but thought the wide ranges of discounts offered were not  helpful for Floridians who need to know exactly what the discounts would  be to make an informed decision on whether or not to spend money on  retrofitting their homes. The Commissioner also thought the discounts  should be higher, even doubled because of an engineering report  conducted for the Florida Department of Community Affairs. The report  demonstrated that recognized loss mitigation devices are much more  resistant to damage than previous data indicated. Click here if you  would like to view the research document on which the new higher  discounts are based: Report on Mitigation Discounts.</p>
<p>Therefore, in  December 2006, the Office promulgated Rule 69O-170.017 which required  all property insurers to provide to the Office higher discounts in their  insurance rates for policyholders who had recognized loss mitigation  devices on their homes no later than March 1, 2007. The Rule requires  insurers to send a list of those discounts with exact dollar savings to  all new and renewed policyholders. Insurers must start sending the  &#8220;Notice of Premium Discounts for Hurricane Loss Mitigation&#8221; form  (OIR-B1-1655) to new and renewing policyholders starting September 5,  2007.</p>
<p>In 2008, the Office commissioned another study to evaluate  windstorm loss relativities for construction features involving the  analysis of damage and loss data from the 2004 and 2005 Florida  hurricanes.</p>
<p>Once I know what my discounts would be, how do I prove to the insurance company I have these features on my home?<br />
For more information visit <a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.winwininspections.com/" target="_new">http://www.winwininspections.com</a><br />
Consumers  can contract with a licensed inspector to examine the home using the  official Uniform Mitigation Verification Inspection Form. This form must  be accepted by all licensed residential property insurance companies in  Florida.</p>
<p>In either case, the homeowner should take the completed inspection form to their agent to begin processing the policy discounts.</p>
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		<item>
		<title>Flu Season Is here are you protected?</title>
		<link>https://www.winwininspections.com/flu-season-is-here-are-you-protected/</link>
		<comments>https://www.winwininspections.com/flu-season-is-here-are-you-protected/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 04 Nov 2010 15:25:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Blog]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://winwininspections.com/?p=595</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Are your customers prepared for this Flu Season? H1N1 INFLUENZA MRSA Did You Know??? The EPA named Indoor Air Pollution as one of the top five environmental risks to public health. The most common method of Influenza is airborne and a person can become infected by simply Touching a surface that is contaminated. Anabec&#8217;s Advanced [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Are your customers prepared for this Flu<br />
Season?<br />
H1N1<br />
INFLUENZA<br />
MRSA<br />
Did You Know???<br />
The EPA named Indoor Air Pollution as one<br />
of the top five environmental risks to<br />
public health. The most common method<br />
of Influenza is airborne and a person can<br />
become infected by simply Touching a<br />
surface that is contaminated.<br />
Anabec&#8217;s Advanced Cleaner and<br />
Anasphere<br />
These products when used together offer a<br />
proactive approach to avoid Influenza!!!<br />
Effective against a broad spectrum of&#8230;<br />
VIRUSES AND BACTERIA<br />
Anabec is committed to keeping our customers<br />
armed and ready to reduce the risks of H1N1!<br />
** For a Limted Time Only**<br />
For every 5 gallon pail purchase of the Anabec<br />
Advanced Cleaning Solution for the month of<br />
NOVEMBER, we will be including one 3oz<br />
packet* of Anasphere for FREE!<br />
This is equivalent to 5,000 SQ. FT. of coverage!<br />
* Offer limited to 6 per customer for the month<br />
of November 2010<br />
Keep your clients protected through this<br />
flu season!<br />
HERPES<br />
LISTERIA</p>
<p>http://winwininspections.com/</p>
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		<title>Florida Wind Mitigation</title>
		<link>https://www.winwininspections.com/florida-wind-mitigation/</link>
		<comments>https://www.winwininspections.com/florida-wind-mitigation/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 29 Sep 2010 19:29:23 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Blog]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://winwininspections.com/?p=590</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Page 1 of 1 INFORMATIONAL MEMORANDUM OIR-10-5M ISSUED August 4, 2010 Florida Office of Insurance Regulation Kevin M. McCarty, Commissioner To Residential Property Insurers in the State of Florida and Parties Interested in the Uniform Mitigation Verification Inspection Form The purpose of this memorandum is to notify Residential Property Insurers and Interested Parties that House [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Page 1 of 1<br />
INFORMATIONAL MEMORANDUM<br />
OIR-10-5M<br />
ISSUED<br />
August 4, 2010<br />
Florida Office of Insurance Regulation<br />
Kevin M. McCarty, Commissioner<br />
To Residential Property Insurers in the State of Florida and Parties<br />
Interested in the Uniform Mitigation Verification Inspection Form<br />
The purpose of this memorandum is to notify Residential Property Insurers and<br />
Interested Parties that House Bill 663, effective July 1, 2010, significantly<br />
changes the “Uniform Mitigation Verification Inspection Form” adopted by the<br />
Financial Services Commission in April 2010. Section 45 of the Bill amends<br />
Section 627.711, Florida Statutes, regarding mitigation verifications and can be<br />
found at the below link.</p>
<p>http://www.myfloridahouse.gov/Sections/Documents/loaddoc.aspx?FileName=_h</p>
<p>0663er.docx&#038;DocumentType=Bill&#038;BillNumber=0663&#038;Session=2010<br />
The Bill provides in part the following:<br />
• Insurers are no longer required to accept mitigation verification<br />
forms from hurricane mitigation inspectors certified by My Safe<br />
Florida Home. Instead, insurers must accept a mitigation<br />
verification form if it is signed by a home inspector licensed under<br />
Section 468.8314, Florida Statutes, who has completed at least<br />
three hours of hurricane mitigation training and completed a<br />
proficiency exam. Thereafter, such licensed home inspectors must<br />
complete at least two hours of continuing education on this subject<br />
as part of their license renewal requirements each year.<br />
• A person who is authorized to sign a mitigation verification form<br />
must inspect the structures personally and not through employees<br />
or other persons, and must certify and attest to this on the form.<br />
The bill provides certain specified exemptions to this requirement<br />
for employees of professional engineers and licensed contractors<br />
who have the requisite skill, knowledge and experience to conduct<br />
a mitigation verification inspection.<br />
• The Bill defines misconduct on the part of an inspector and<br />
provides for disciplinary action by licensing boards and<br />
Page 2 of 2<br />
investigations by the Department of Financial Services Division of<br />
Insurance Fraud.<br />
• Before accepting any uniform mitigation verification form provided<br />
by an authorized mitigation inspector, an insurer at its own<br />
expense, may require verification by an independent inspector,<br />
inspection company, or a third-party quality assurance provider,<br />
before accepting a form as valid.<br />
The Office of Insurance Regulation will be holding a public workshop regarding<br />
changes to form OIR-B1-1802 (Uniform Mitigation Verification Inspection Form)<br />
necessitated by this new legislation. Comments regarding other aspects of the<br />
mitigation inspection form will also be accepted during the workshop.<br />
WHEN: September 22, 2010 at 9:30 A.M.<br />
WHERE: Room 116, J. Edwin Larson Building<br />
200 East Gaines Street<br />
Tallahassee, Florida, 32399-0330<br />
If you have any questions regarding this memorandum, please contact Mike<br />
Milnes, Deputy Director of Property &#038; Casualty Product Review, Florida Office of<br />
Insurance Regulation at michael.milnes@floir.com or (850) 413-5306.</p>
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		<item>
		<title>Home Inspection Standards</title>
		<link>https://www.winwininspections.com/home-inspection-standards/</link>
		<comments>https://www.winwininspections.com/home-inspection-standards/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 27 Jul 2010 13:50:33 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Blog]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://winwininspections.com/?p=578</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[1. Definitions and Scope. 2. Standards of Practice 2.1. Roof 2.2. Exterior 2.3. Basement, Foundation, Crawlspace &#38; Structure 2.4. Heating 2.5. Cooling 2.6. Plumbing 2.7. Electrical 2.8. Fireplace 2.9. Attic &#38; Insulation 2.10. Doors, Windows &#38; Interior 3. Limitations, Exceptions &#38; Exclusions 4. Glossary of Terms 1. Definitions and Scope 1.1. A Home Inspection is [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>1. Definitions and Scope.</p>
<p>2. Standards of Practice</p>
<blockquote><p>2.1. Roof<br />
2.2. Exterior<br />
2.3. Basement, Foundation, Crawlspace &amp; Structure<br />
2.4. Heating<br />
2.5. Cooling<br />
2.6. Plumbing<br />
2.7. Electrical<br />
2.8. Fireplace<br />
2.9. Attic &amp; Insulation<br />
2.10. Doors, Windows &amp; Interior</p></blockquote>
<p>3. Limitations, Exceptions &amp; Exclusions</p>
<p>4. Glossary of Terms</p>
<h1>1. Definitions and Scope</h1>
<blockquote><p>1.1. A <em>Home Inspection</em> is a non-invasive, visual examination of a residential dwelling, performed for a fee, which is designed to identify observed material defects within specific components of said dwelling.  Components may include any combination of mechanical, structural, electrical, plumbing, or other essential systems or portions of the home, as identified and agreed to by the Client and Inspector, prior to the inspection process.</p>
<blockquote dir="ltr"><p>I. A home inspection is intended to assist in evaluation of the overall condition of the dwelling. The inspection is based on observation of the visible and apparent condition of the structure and its components on the date of the inspection, and not the prediction of future conditions.</p></blockquote>
<blockquote>
<div>II. A home inspection will not reveal every concern that exists or ever could exist, but only those material defects observed on the day of the inspection.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>III. A home inspection can include a survey and/or analysis of energy flows and usage in a residential property if the client requests it.</div>
</blockquote>
<p>1.2. A <em>Material Defect</em> is a condition of a residential real property, or any portion of it, that would have a significant, adverse impact on the value of the real property, or that involves an unreasonable risk to people on the property. The fact that a structural element, system or subsystem is near, at or beyond the end of the normal useful life of such a structural element, system or subsystem is not by itself a material defect.</p>
<p>1.3. An <em>Inspection Report</em> shall describe and identify, in written format, the inspected systems, structures, and components of the dwelling, and shall identify material defects observed. Inspection reports may contain recommendations regarding conditions reported or recommendations for correction, monitoring or further evaluation by professionals, but this is not required.</p></blockquote>
<h1>2. Standards of Practice</h1>
<blockquote><p>2.1. Roof</p>
<blockquote><p>I. The inspector shall inspect from ground level or eaves:</p>
<blockquote><p>A. the roof covering;<br />
B. the gutters;<br />
C. the downspouts;<br />
D. the vents, flashings, skylights, chimney and other roof<br />
    penetrations; and <br />
E. the general structure of the roof from the readily accessible panels, doors or stairs.</p></blockquote>
<p>II. The inspector is not required to:</p>
<blockquote>
<div>A. walk on any pitched roof surface.<br />
B. predict the service life expectancy.<br />
C. inspect underground downspout diverter drainage pipes.<br />
D. remove snow, ice, debris or other conditions that prohibit the observation of the roof surfaces.</div>
<div>E. move insulation.<br />
F. inspect antennae, lightning arresters, de-icing equipment, or similar attachments.</div>
<div>G. walk on any roof areas that appear, in the opinion of the inspector, to be unsafe.</div>
<div>H. walk on any roof areas if it might, in the opinion of the inspector, cause damage. </div>
<div>I. perform a water test.</div>
<div>J. warrant or certify the roof.</div>
<div>K. confirm proper fastening.</div>
</blockquote>
</blockquote>
<div>2.2. Exterior</div>
<blockquote><p>I. The inspector shall inspect:</p>
<blockquote>
<div>A. the siding, flashing and trim;<br />
B. all exterior doors, decks, stoops, steps, stairs, porches, railings, eaves, soffits and fascias;</div>
<div>C. and report as in need of repair any spacings between intermediate balusters, spindles, or rails for steps, stairways, balconies, and railings that permit the passage of an object greater than 4 inches in diameter;</div>
<div>D. a representative number of windows;<br />
E. the vegetation, surface drainage, and retaining walls when these are likely to adversely affect the structure;<br />
F. and describe the exterior wall covering.</div>
</blockquote>
<p>II. The inspector is not required to:</p>
<blockquote>
<div>A. inspect or operate screens, storm windows, shutters, awnings, fences, outbuildings, or exterior accent lighting.<br />
B. inspect items, including window and door flashings, which are not visible or readily accessible from the ground.<br />
C. inspect geological, geotechnical, hydrological and/or soil conditions.<br />
D. inspect recreational facilities or playground equipment.<br />
E. inspect seawalls, break-walls and docks.<br />
F. inspect erosion control and earth stabilization measures.<br />
G. inspect for safety-type glass.<br />
H. inspect underground utilities.<br />
I.  inspect underground items.<br />
J.  inspect wells or springs.<br />
K. inspect solar, wind, or geothermal systems.<br />
L.  inspect swimming pools or spas.<br />
M. inspect septic systems or cesspools. <br />
N. inspect sprinkler systems.<br />
O. inspect drain fields or drywells.<br />
P. determine the integrity of the thermal window seals or damaged glass.</div>
<div>Q. inspect any damaged glass.</div>
</blockquote>
</blockquote>
<p>2.3. Basement, Foundation &amp; Crawlspace</p>
<blockquote><p>I. The inspector shall inspect:</p>
<blockquote>
<div>
<div>A. the basement;<br />
B. the foundation;<br />
C. the crawlspace;<br />
D. the visible structural components;</div>
<div>E. and report on the location of under-floor access openings;<br />
F. and report any present conditions or clear indications of active water penetration observed by the inspector; </div>
<div>G. for wood in contact or near soil;</div>
<div>H. and report any general indications of foundation movement that are observed by the inspector, such as, but not limited to: sheetrock cracks, brick cracks, out-of-square door frames, or floor slopes;</div>
<div>I.  and report on any cutting, notching and boring of framing members which may present a structural or safety concern.</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
<p>II. The inspector is not required to:</p>
<blockquote dir="ltr">
<div>A. enter any crawlspaces that are not readily accessible or where entry could cause damage or pose a hazard to the inspector.<br />
B. move stored items or debris.<br />
C. operate sump pumps with inaccessible floats.<br />
D. identify size, spacing, span, location or determine adequacy of foundation bolting, bracing, joists, joist spans or support systems.<br />
E. provide any engineering or architectural service.<br />
F. report on the adequacy of any structural system or component.</div>
</blockquote>
</blockquote>
<div>2.4. Heating</div>
<blockquote><p>I. The inspector shall inspect:</p>
<blockquote><p>A. the heating systems using normal operating controls, an describe the energy source and heating method;<br />
B. and report as in need of repair heating systems which do not operate;<br />
C. and report if the heating systems are deemed inaccessible.</p></blockquote>
<p>II. The inspector is not required to:</p>
<blockquote>
<div>A. inspect or evaluate interiors of flues or chimneys, fire chambers, heat exchangers, combustion air systems, fresh air intakes, humidifiers, dehumidifiers, electronic air filters, geothermal systems or solar heating systems.<br />
B. inspect fuel tanks or underground or concealed fuel supply systems.<br />
C. determine the uniformity, temperature, flow, balance, distribution, size, capacity, BTU, or supply adequacy of the heating system.<br />
D. light or ignite pilot flames.<br />
E. activate heating, heat pump systems or other heating systems when ambient temperatures or other circumstances are not conducive to safe operation or may damage the equipment.<br />
F. override electronic thermostats.<br />
G. evaluate fuel quality.</div>
<div>H. verify thermostat calibration, heat anticipation, or automatic setbacks, timers, programs or clocks.</div>
</blockquote>
</blockquote>
<p>2.5. Cooling</p>
<blockquote><p>I. The inspector shall inspect:</p>
<blockquote><p>A. the central cooling equipment using normal operating controls.</p></blockquote>
<p>II. The inspector is not required to:</p>
<blockquote><p>A. determine the uniformity, temperature, flow, balance, distribution, size, capacity, BTU, or supply adequacy of the cooling system.<br />
B. inspect window units, through-wall units, or electronic air filters.<br />
C. operate equipment or systems if exterior temperature is below 60 degrees Fahrenheit, or when other circumstances are not conducive to safe operation, or may damage the equipment.<br />
D. inspect or determine thermostat calibration, cooling anticipation, or automatic setbacks or clocks.<br />
E. examine electrical current, coolant fluids or gases, or coolant leakage.</p></blockquote>
</blockquote>
<p>2.6. Plumbing</p>
<blockquote><p>I. The inspector shall:</p>
<blockquote>
<div>A. inspect and determine if the water supply is public or private;</div>
<div>B. verify the presence of and identify the location of the main water shut-off valve;<br />
C. inspect the water heating equipment, including venting, connections, energy source supply system, and seismic bracing, and verify the presence or absence of temperature-pressure relief valves and/or Watts 210 valves;<br />
D. flush toilets;<br />
E. water-test sinks, tubs and showers for functional drainage;<br />
F. inspect the interior water supply, including all fixtures and faucets;<br />
G. inspect the drain, waste and vent systems, including all fixtures;<br />
H. describe any visible fuel storage systems;<br />
I.  inspect the drainage sump pumps and test pumps with accessible floats;<br />
J.  inspect and describe the water supply, drain, waste and main fuel shut-off valves, as well as the location of the water main and main fuel shut-off valves;<br />
K. inspect and report as in need of repair deficiencies in the water supply by viewing the functional flow in two fixtures operated simultaneously;<br />
L. inspect and report as in need of repair deficiencies in installation and identification of hot and cold faucets;<br />
M. inspect and report as in need of repair mechanical drain-stops that are missing or do not operate if installed in sinks, lavatories and tubs; and<br />
N. inspect and report as in need of repair commodes that have cracks in the ceramic material, are improperly mounted on the floor, leak, or have tank components which do not operate.</div>
</blockquote>
<p>II. The inspector is not required to:</p>
<blockquote>
<div>A. light or ignite pilot flames.<br />
B. determine the size, temperature, age, life expectancy or adequacy of the water heater.<br />
C. inspect interiors of flues or chimneys, combustion air systems, water softening or filtering systems, well pumps or tanks, safety or shut-off valves, floor drains, lawn sprinkler systems or fire sprinkler systems.<br />
D. determine the exact flow rate, volume, pressure, temperature, or adequacy of the water supply.<br />
E. determine the water quality or potability or the reliability of the water supply or source.<br />
F. open sealed plumbing access panels.<br />
G. inspect clothes washing machines or their connections.<br />
H. operate any main, branch or fixture valve.</div>
<div>I.  test shower pans, tub and shower surrounds or enclosures for leakage.<br />
J. evaluate the compliance with local or state conservation or energy standards, or the proper design or sizing of any water, waste or venting components, fixtures or piping.<br />
K. determine the effectiveness of anti-siphon, back-flow prevention or drain-stop devices.<br />
L. determine whether there are sufficient clean-outs for effective cleaning of drains.<br />
M. evaluate gas, liquid propane or oil storage tanks.</div>
<div>N. inspect any underground or concealed fuel supply systems. <br />
O. inspect any private sewage waste disposal system or component thereof.<br />
P. inspect water treatment systems or water filters.<br />
Q. inspect water storage tanks, pressure pumps or bladder tanks.</div>
<div>
<div>R. evaluate wait-time to obtain hot water at fixtures, or perform testing of any kind to water heater elements.</div>
<div>S. evaluate or determine the adequacy of combustion air.</div>
<div>T. test, operate, open or close safety controls, manual stop valves and/or temperature or pressure relief valves.</div>
<div>U. examine ancillary systems or components, such as, but not limited to, those relating to solar water heating, hot water circulation.</div>
<div>V. determine the existence or condition of polybutylene plumbing.</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
</blockquote>
<p>2.7. Electrical</p>
<blockquote><p>I. The inspector shall inspect:</p>
<blockquote>
<div>A. the service drop/lateral;<br />
B. the meter socket enclosures;<br />
C. the means for disconnecting the service main;<br />
D. and describe the service disconnect amperage rating, if labeled;<br />
E. panelboards and overcurrent devices (breakers and fuses);</div>
<div>F. and report on any unused circuit breaker panel openings that are not filled;<br />
G. the service grounding and bonding;<br />
H. a representative number of switches, lighting fixtures, and receptacles, including receptacles observed and deemed to be AFCI-protected during the inspection using the AFCI test button, where possible;</div>
<div>I. and test all Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) receptacles and GFCI circuit breakers observed and deemed to be GFCIs during the inspection using a GFCI tester, where possible;</div>
<div>J. and report the presence of solid conductor aluminum branch circuit wiring, if readily visible;<br />
K. and report on any tested receptacles in which power was not present, polarity is incorrect, is not secured to the wall, the cover is not in place, the ground fault circuit interrupter devices are not properly installed or do not operate properly, evidence of arcing or excessive heat is present, or where the receptacle is not grounded or is not secured to the wall; <span style="color: #ff0000;"><br />
</span>L. the service entrance conductors and the condition of the conductor insulation;<br />
M. and report the absence of smoke detectors; and <br />
N. service entrance cables, and report as in need of repair deficiencies in the integrity of the insulation, drip loop, or separation of conductors at weatherheads and clearances from grade or rooftops.</div>
</blockquote>
<p>II. The inspector is not required to:</p>
<blockquote>
<div>A. insert any tool, probe or device into the main panelboard, sub-panels, distribution panelboards, or electrical fixtures.<br />
B. operate electrical systems that are shut down.<br />
C. remove panelboard cabinet covers or dead front covers, if they are not readily accessible.<br />
D. operate or reset overcurrent protection devices or overload devices.<br />
E. operate non-accessible smoke detectors.<br />
F. measure or determine the amperage or voltage of the main service equipment, if not visibly labeled.</div>
<div>G. inspect the fire or alarm system and components.<br />
H. inspect the ancillary wiring or remote control devices.<br />
I. activate any electrical systems or branch circuits which are not energized. <br />
J. inspect low-voltage systems, electrical de-icing tapes, swimming pool wiring, or any time-controlled devices.<br />
K. verify the service ground.<br />
L. inspect private or emergency electrical supply sources, including, but not limited to: generators, windmills, photovoltaic solar collectors, or battery or electrical storage facility.<br />
M. inspect spark or lightning arrestors.</div>
<div>N. inspect or test de-icing equipment.<br />
O. conduct voltage drop calculations.<br />
P. determine the accuracy of labeling.</div>
<div>Q. inspect exterior accent lighting. </div>
</blockquote>
</blockquote>
<p>2.8. Fireplace</p>
<blockquote><p>I. The inspector shall inspect:</p>
<blockquote><p>A. the fireplace, and open and close the damper door, if readily accessible and operable;<br />
B. hearth extensions and other permanently installed components;<br />
C. and report as in need of repair deficiencies in the lintel, hearth and material surrounding the fireplace, including fireplace opening clearance from visible combustible materials.</p></blockquote>
<p>II. The inspector is not required to:</p>
<blockquote>
<div>A. inspect the flue or vent system.<br />
B. inspect the interior of chimneys or flues, fire doors or screens, seals or gaskets, or mantels.<br />
C. determine the need for a chimney sweep.<br />
D. operate gas fireplace inserts.<br />
E. light pilot flames.<br />
F. determine the appropriateness of any installation.<br />
G. inspect automatic fuel-feed devices.<br />
H. inspect combustion and/or make-up air devices.<br />
I.  inspect heat distribution assists, whether gravity controlled or fan-assisted.<br />
J.  ignite or extinguish fires.<br />
K. determine adequacy of draft or draft characteristics.<br />
L. move fireplace inserts, stoves, or firebox contents.<br />
M. perform a smoke test.</div>
<div>N. dismantle or remove any component.</div>
<div>O. perform a National Fire Prevention Association (NFPA)-style inspection.</div>
<div>P.  perform a Phase I fireplace and chimney inspection.</div>
</blockquote>
</blockquote>
<p>2.9. Attic, Ventilation &amp; Insulation</p>
<blockquote><p>I. The inspector shall inspect:</p>
<blockquote><p>A. the insulation in unfinished spaces;<br />
B. the ventilation of attic spaces;<br />
C. mechanical ventilation systems;<br />
D. and report on the general absence or lack of insulation in<br />
    unfinished spaces.</p></blockquote>
<p>II. The inspector is not required to:</p>
<blockquote>
<div>A. enter the attic or any unfinished spaces that are not readily accessible, or where entry could cause damage or pose a safety hazard to the inspector, in his or her opinion.<br />
B. to move, touch, or disturb insulation.<br />
C. to move, touch or disturb vapor retarders.<br />
D. break or otherwise damage the surface finish or weather seal on or around access panels and covers.<br />
E. identify the composition or exact R-value of insulation material.<br />
F. activate thermostatically operated fans.<br />
G. determine the types of materials used in insulation or wrapping of pipes, ducts, jackets, boilers and wiring.</div>
<div>H. determine the adequacy of ventilation.</div>
</blockquote>
</blockquote>
<p>2.10. Doors, Windows &amp; Interior</p>
<blockquote><p>I. The inspector shall:</p>
<blockquote>
<div>A. open and close a representative number of doors and windows;<br />
B. inspect the walls, ceilings, steps, stairways and railings;</div>
<div>
<div>C. and report as in need of repair any spacing between intermediate balusters, spindles or rails for steps, stairways and railings that permit the passage of an object greater than 4 inches in diameter;<br />
D. inspect garage doors and garage door openers by operating first by remote (if available), and then by the installed automatic door control;<br />
E. and report as in need of repair any installed electronic sensors that are not operable or not installed at proper heights above the garage door;<br />
F. and report as in need of repair any door locks or side ropes that have not been removed or disabled when garage door opener is in use;<br />
G. and report as in need of repair any windows that are obviously fogged or display other evidence of broken seals.</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
<p>II. The inspector is not required to:</p>
<blockquote>
<div>A. inspect paint, wallpaper, window treatments or finish treatments.<br />
B. inspect central vacuum systems.<br />
C. inspect safety glazing.<br />
D. inspect security systems or components.<br />
E. evaluate the fastening of countertops, cabinets, sink tops or fixtures. <br />
F. move furniture, stored items, or any coverings, such as carpets or rugs, in order to inspect the concealed floor structure.<br />
G. move drop-ceiling tiles.<br />
H. inspect or move any household appliances.<br />
I.  inspect or operate equipment housed in the garage, except as otherwise noted.<br />
J.  verify or certify safe operation of any auto-reverse or related safety function of a garage door.<br />
K. operate or evaluate any security bar release and opening mechanisms, whether interior or exterior, including their compliance with local, state or federal standards.<br />
L. operate any system, appliance or component that requires the use of special keys, codes, combinations or devices.<br />
M. operate or evaluate self-cleaning oven cycles, tilt guards/latches or signal lights.<br />
N. inspect microwave ovens or test leakage from microwave ovens.<br />
O. operate or examine any sauna, steam-jenny, kiln, toaster, ice-maker, coffee-maker, can-opener, bread-warmer, blender, instant hot water dispenser, or other small, ancillary devices.<br />
P. inspect elevators.<br />
Q. inspect remote controls.<br />
R. inspect appliances.<br />
S. inspect items not permanently installed.</div>
<div>T. discover firewall compromises. <br />
U. examine or operate any above-ground, movable, freestanding, or otherwise non-permanently installed pool/spa, recreational equipment or self-contained equipment.<br />
V. come into contact with any pool or spa water in order to determine the system structure or components.<br />
W. determine the adequacy of spa jet water force or bubble effect.<br />
X.  determine the structural integrity or leakage of a pool or spa.</div>
<p> </p></blockquote>
</blockquote>
</blockquote>
<h1>3. Limitations, Exceptions &amp; Exclusions</h1>
<blockquote><p>3.1. Limitations:</p>
<blockquote>
<div>I.     An inspection is not technically exhaustive.<br />
II.    An inspection will not identify concealed or latent defects.<br />
III.   An inspection will not deal with aesthetic concerns or what could be <br />
       deemed matters of taste, cosmetic defects, etc.<br />
IV.   An inspection will not determine the suitability of the property for any use.<br />
V.    An inspection does not determine the market value of the property or its marketability.</div>
<div>VI.   An inspection does not determine the insurability of the property.<br />
VII.  An inspection does not determine the advisability or inadvisability of the purchase of the inspected property.<br />
VIII. An inspection does not determine the life expectancy of the property or any components or systems therein.<br />
IX.   An inspection does not include items not permanently installed.<br />
X.    These Standards of Practice apply only to homes with four or fewer<br />
       dwelling units.</div>
</blockquote>
<p>3.2. Exclusions:</p>
<blockquote><p>I. The inspectors are not required to determine:</p>
<blockquote><p>A. property boundary lines or encroachments.<br />
B. the condition of any component or system that is not readily accessible.<br />
C. the service life expectancy of any component or system.<br />
D. the size, capacity, BTU, performance, or efficiency of any component or system.<br />
E. the cause or reason of any condition.<br />
F. the cause for the need of repair or replacement of any system or component.<br />
G. future conditions.<br />
H. compliance with codes or regulations.<br />
I. the presence of evidence of rodents, animals or insects.<br />
J. the presence of mold, mildew or fungus.<br />
K. the presence of air-borne hazards.<br />
L. the presence of birds.<br />
M. the presence of other flora or fauna.<br />
N. the air quality.<br />
O. the existence of asbestos.<br />
P. the existence of environmental hazards.<br />
Q. the existence of electro-magnetic fields.<br />
R. the presence of hazardous materials including, but not limited to, the presence of lead in paint.<br />
S. any hazardous waste conditions.<br />
T. any manufacturer&#8217;s recalls or conformance with manufacturer installation, or any information included for consumer protection purposes.<br />
U. operating costs of systems.<br />
V. replacement or repair cost estimates.<br />
W. the acoustical properties of any systems.<br />
X. estimates of the cost to operating any given system.</p></blockquote>
<p>II. The inspectors are not required to operate:</p>
<blockquote><p>A. any system that is shut down.<br />
B. any system that does not function properly.<br />
C. or evaluate low-voltage electrical systems such as, but not limited to: <br />
      1. phone lines; <br />
      2. cable lines; <br />
      3. antennae;  <br />
      4. lights; or <br />
      5. remote controls.<br />
D. any system that does not turn on with the use of normal operating controls.<br />
E. any shut-off valves or manual stop valves.<br />
F. any electrical disconnect or over current protection devices.<br />
G. any alarm systems.<br />
H. moisture meters, gas detectors or similar equipment.</p></blockquote>
<p>III. The inspectors are not required to:</p>
<blockquote><p>A. move any personal items or other obstructions, such as, but not limited to:<br />
      1. throw rugs; <br />
      2. furniture;<br />
      3. floor or wall coverings; <br />
      4. ceiling tiles; <br />
      5. window coverings; <br />
      6. equipment; <br />
      7. plants; <br />
      8. ice; <br />
      9. debris; <br />
      10. snow; <br />
      11. water; <br />
      12. dirt; <br />
      13. foliage; or <br />
      14. pets.</p>
<div>B. dismantle, open, or uncover any system or component.<br />
C. enter or access any area which may, in the opinion of the inspector, be unsafe.<br />
D. enter crawlspaces or other areas that are unsafe or not readily accessible.<br />
E. inspect underground items such as, but not limited to, underground storage tanks or other indications of their presence, whether abandoned or actively used.<br />
F. do anything which, in the inspector&#8217;s opinion, is likely to be unsafe or dangerous to the inspector or others, or damage property, such as, but not limited to: walking on roof surfaces, climbing ladders, entering attic spaces, or negotiating with pets.<br />
G. inspect decorative items.<br />
H. inspect common elements or areas in multi-unit housing.<br />
I.  inspect intercoms, speaker systems, radio-controlled security devices, or lawn irrigation systems.<br />
J.  offer guarantees or warranties.<br />
K. offer or perform any engineering services.<br />
L. offer or perform any trade or professional service other than home inspection.<br />
M. research the history of the property, report on its potential for alteration, modification, extendibility, or its suitability for a specific or proposed use for occupancy.<br />
N. determine the age of construction or installation of any system structure or component of a building, or differentiate between original construction and subsequent additions, improvements, renovations or replacements.<br />
O. determine the insurability of a property.</div>
<div>P. perform or offer Phase 1 environmental audits.</div>
<div>Q. inspect on any system or component which is not included in these standards.</div>
<p> </p></blockquote>
</blockquote>
</blockquote>
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